If lockers like the old Attache and the new Nimbus Lock can achieve these low numbers, it is my opinion that every carabiner should follow suit. All carabiners were positioned in the same way and loaded onto the same side of the belay device. Yes, I know kg is not a force measurement, but you can use your imagination. Then, the brake strand was then pulled while connected to a very high-tech and scientific force measurement gauge (hanging luggage scale) a total of 5 times, and the average value recorded. Resistance was measured by setting up a plaquette with the full weight of the rope on the climber's side. I find the below chart to be the most important takeaway of this review. I would say that it has more tension than the rest, but not nearly as strong, smooth, and crisp at the KONG. All of the other carabiners feel similar, with the exception of the old attache. It has strong resistance to a point, then the point is overcome and it is easily fully opened. It has a remarkably strong spring that has the peak resistance right in the middle of it's travel. In my opinion, the best gate "feel" on any of these carabiners was the KONG HMS Napik. I'll take this opportunity to mention spring tension and overall gate feel, exclusive of the screw sleeve (for now). The combination of gate opening and round spine on the Rock Exotica Pirate and the Sterling Falcon make those carabiners excellent choices for that application. This is most often true when belaying with a KONG GiGi. One of the main reasons for using a fully round stock carabiner is the option to belay with the rope bearing on the spine. Round Stock Petzl Attache (discontinued).The carabiners (all brand new) that were tested include: Resistance when pulled through a plaquette.In this review, five metrics were measured: In adding these to the review, the intent was to have the data represent what we already know. Most people are aware that the new Petzl Attache and Sm’D are not the best option for a rope bearing carabiner when belaying from above. In addition to the fully round stock carabiners, the CAMP Nimbus was added to the review by special request (shout out to Nick B!), and two non-round stock carabiners were added to the test for comparison purposes only. The goal of this review was to find the best fully round stock locking carabiner for rope bearing on a belay device in plaquette or "guide" mode.
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